A Garment a Month: September - Sailor Top

My project this month was the Sailor Top by Fancy Tiger Crafts.

I was keen to try something that had sleeves (raglan, but still) and I had done a little bit of gathering with the Geranium top I made the month before, so I thought "Sure, I can handle that".


What I thought of the finished garment: Love it. It looks like I got it at a shop (but a really cool and individual shop ;) ). This is probably my favourite out of all of the garments I have made so far. It is really flattering and a good length for me - no riding up and exposing my belly as I am running around and hauling kids back and forth.

An aside, I finally got a new phone, so hopefully the quality of my photos should improve!

What I thought of the pattern: The pattern was easy to understand and clearly set out, yet I found the construction more complicated than I thought it would be. I found the neckline especially troublesome. I tried sewing it down by machine but I missed a lot of the edges (you sew it from the front) and it looked quite shite. So I went and unpicked it and sewed the inside down by hand. Worth it for the nice neat finish, but it meant that I couldn't wear it to work the day I wanted. Some of the seam finishing instructions are a little unclear too I thought - especially when attaching the sleeves. I misread the pattern where is said "finish seams"- I literally thought it meant finish sewing the seams. I had to go back at a later stage and do some tricky zig zagging of the edges. Also, zig zagging is not my favourite finish, give me a good french seam any day.


Other observations:

• Sewing with lawn is trickier than sewing with quilting weight cotton. I found it hard to get it to behave, but it was worth if for a lovely floaty top;
• Making the pattern markings with a frixion pen is a bad idea. What do they always say to do when you are sewing? Iron, iron, iron! (actually press, I know it's different). What happens to frixion pen when you do that? Poof! No more markings. No markings actually made doing the gathering and attaching the yoke quite tricky. 
• There must be an easier way to turn a hem up by an even amount. I currently mark it with a ruler to press along. Am I missing some really obvious trick? Help me people!
• Not related to the pattern - but relevant anyway, all this garment sewing is starting to pay off. I am finding it more straight forward to follow patterns and every time I approach a pattern or technique with some trepidation I find that it is nowhere as hard as I had imagined. 

Next Challenge: Mmm, I am still debating it. I am tossing up between the Flatter Me Frock, The Emery Dress and The Anywhere Skirt. The first two because I think that they will be a challenge and I love a frock (I am thinking in Loominous or some of this sweet jumbo gingham) and the skirt because I can't get Anna's version out of my head. Have a vote! 

This is a finish for both ALYoF and my Q3 FAL.

A garment a month - Geranium Top

My garment for the month of August was the Geranium top (pattern by Made by Rae). 

 

Now, I know that this isn’t a garment for me, but it is still a garment and I did learn some new things so I am still counting it as a win.

 

Last month we had book week here, so the girls for school had to dress up as book characters. In the past it has always been dress up as any character from a book, but this year Ms Moo had to dress as a character from the particular book they were reading in class: A House of Her Own, which is a lovely little story, but I’ll be honest – doesn’t have a lot of scope for variety in costumes. The main character is a little girl called Audrey who wears a red spotty dress, green shorts and a big hat.

 

In the tradition of all parents, everywhere, I started making the costume at 8pm the night before we needed it. I had been sure that I had red and white spotted material and green material in my stash. Yes, I did, but not enough to make anything...sigh. With some clever improvisation I managed to make a top with a red spotted yoke and a green skirt. My dear daughter was less impressed...Five year olds, they are so literal. But she came around to loving it by the end of the day.

 

So the pattern – it was easy to follow. I made the View A top with flutter sleeves and the View B skirt and it was all pretty straight forward. I managed to have the entire thing finished by 1AM from taping the pattern PDF together to sewing the last button on, which in my view is pretty quick. I did have some issues with the skirt being too big for the yoke and had to add some extra pleats, but I am pretty sure that was user error because it was pretty late by the time I got to that stage.

 

Making the flutter sleeves was a new experience for me. I am not sure how the edges will wear in the wash since they are just finished with a zig zag stitch, but the basting worked like a dream and I am keen to try the gathers on my Sailor top which is up next in my garment a month challenge. 

 

I also need to work out how to do button holes properly on my machine. They were a bit wonky. Nothing a bit of Fray Stoppa won’t fix though.

 

The low point of making the top was when I was zig zagging the edges of the sleeves, I was concentrating so hard on sewing around the curve that I actually sewed right through my finger. Do you know, I had always wondered how it was actually possible to do that? But it isn’t actually that hard as I found out. (STOP READING IF YOU ARE EASILY GROSSED OUT). The worst part was that the needle broke and was stuck in my finger and I had to pull it out. And making the sleeves is right at the start so I still had to push on. And I had to get a tetanus shot. On the plus side, the needle was so super sharp (titanium coated) that it pretty much resealed itself and healed up really fast. Swings and roundabouts.

 

Anyway, there are definitely more geranium dress / tops on my horizon for my littles. I am going to try all the ways. I have visions of Lizzy House unicorns on Christmas Frocks.

 

A VERY late post for a garment a month: July - the Ella Top

First up I should say that this post has been written since the 31st of July. I have just been too busy to get onto a computer and post it (don't get me started on the challenges of blogging on a mobile device...)

There hasn't been too much sewing going on at Casa Moobird recently. First off, it has been school holidays and we all went over to Western Australia for a much needed break. If you haven't been I highly recommend it. We all came home tanned and with a twinkle in our eyes. Ms Moo also came home with pink hair.

Then various work commitments have kept us all busy. However, knowing that July was going to be a crazy month, I chose a pattern that I thought would be reasonably quick. It was and I just managed to squeak in for the month (even though I was a bit tardy blogging about it)! I taped the pattern together and cut it out one night whilst watching tv and pieced it in a few hours the next night. I do love a fast sew!

Ta da! The finished top. Still havent mastered the art of a decent selfie. There needs to be a "selfie for bloggers"tutorial!

I thought the Ella top by Liola Patterns was a great pattern. Like the Sutton Blouse I made last month, the Ella looks just as good on the inside as the outside. 

Just as pretty on the inside. The internal finishes give me a great deal of satisfaction

It also has a pretty nifty construction where you bind the neck / armholes before it is completely assembled. It certainly made attaching the binding easier. I find that when the binding is attached to a completed neckline it is much harder to attach and it is harder to avoid puckers. 

This version was truly a scrap buster. I used the left over backing from my Sea Star quilt with a scrap of chambray from my Alder skirt. 

I really love the look of the contrasting yoke and the definition that little piece of chambray gives. 

So quibbles... Based on my measurements I made an XL and the neck binding wasn't long enough based on the pattern piece. Since I was using leftover fabric I didn't have enough to make a longer piece to had to sew a bit on the end. Not major since the binding is in the inside, but a bit of a pain.  

Also the way the top is constructed does result in a few bulky seams. To be fair, the pattern recommends lightweight fabric and I used quilting cotton, but some of those seams were hard core. I broke two needles finishing it off! 

These minor issues aside, I'd make it again, but maybe in a voile or lawn to combat the chunky seam phenomenon. I am keen to try out different fabric combos - with the yoke and binding there are so many fun options for putting your own personal touch on it. 

This is a finish from my Q3 FAL List. 

A Garment a Month: Sutton Blouse

This month for my (own personal) garment a month challenge I made a Sutton Blouse, pattern by True Bias. 

Taking a quick photo on the front door before any of the neighbours walk past and wonder what on earth I am doing

The Sutton Blouse is a V-neck top with kimono sleeves and a pleat in the back. I have a similar top that I bought ages ago that I have literally worn to death. The side seams have all torn and I was going to dismember it and try to draft up my own pattern for it when I saw the Sutton Blouse one day while browsing. 

I was a bit apprehensive about trying the pattern as it is graded as Intermediate (I would not classify myself as an intermediate level when it comes to sewing clothes) but Kelli has a sew along for the blouse on her blog, so I thought why not? 

The top has a cute pleat at the back, which makes it nice and roomy - great for running after kids (I wore mine ten pin bowling)

As all the other things that I have hesitated about when it comes to sewing, it actually wasn't that hard. The pattern is exceptionally well written. I found it very clear and easy to follow. My favourite thing about the pattern is how beautifully finished the inside of the garment is. No exposed seams anywhere, which is a bonus when you don't have an over locker. I love it when the inside of a garment looks just as nice as the outside. 

See how neat and tidy the inside looks? Apart from my slightly wonky stitching...shhh, we won't talk about that

I thought the method of attaching the bias trim around the neckline was super clever and I definitely got my best results ever attaching bias tape. It probably also helped that rather than using the pattern piece for the tape, I measured it and the cut it with a ruler and a rotary cutter. I don't know if it's because I am a lefty, but I am terrible at cutting with scissors! 

Check the finish on the neckline. I am so proud of how good it looks, I am tempted to wear it inside out (not really)

I have already worn this top and it is in the wash as I write. I will definitely make another one of these tops. Perhaps with a contrasting yoke. I count this one as a win. 

That's a finish off my Q2 FAL list and I am linking up with the Sew Mama Sew Community Super Sewing Match. The Round One Challenge is the Sutton Blouse, so it seemed kind of fortuitous.  

A Garment a Month: May - Bianca Top

This month, my garment was the Bianca top by Made by Rae.

Ta Da! Lounge shot since I cannot for the life of me figure out how to take a decent selfie

I have to say that this is one of the best written patterns I have made. It is really nicely laid out and easy to follow. There are good explanations of the various steps, loads of tips and diagrams. I especially love the appendix that shows the different options for finishing seams. My top has lovely french seams and looks as pretty on the inside as it does on the outside.

The pattern has an option for either shirring or an elastic casing. Since the whole goal of this garment a month challenge is to actually try new things and grow my skills I decided to give shirring a go. I had the elastic thread from when I made my Staple dresses (when I chickened out and decided I would wear them with a belt). Life. Changed. (Not really, but it reinforced to me that the things that I think are too hard / scary to try probably aren't that bad). I am seriously contemplating retrospectively shirring those Staple dresses.

Shirring, oh how I love thee

This is another one off my Q2 FAL list. Next up, the Sutton Blouse! 

A Garment a Month: April - Alder Skirt

I have had the Alder skirt pattern by Imagine Gnats kicking around for ages waiting to get made. I have actually had the PDF taped together for nearly a year! Disgrace!

It was actually on my Q1 FAL list so I am glad to get it crossed off for Q2. And even though I am posting this in May, I actually finished it in April (just!) so it still counts for my garment a month challenge.

 

I whipped it out of some chambray and used this Tula Pink fabric for the accent pockets and whipped up View A with the cute centre pleat and sticky-out pockets.

This Elizabeth print has to be me favourite - I want yardage in ALL the colours!

Like all the other Imagine Gnats patterns I have made (Bess top and Roly Poly pinafore) this was a pretty straightforward make. I had to read some of the instructions several times, but I put that down to my inexperience and sewing late at night (sigh, the challenges of having to go to work all day. I do get great satisfaction from a well composed PowerPoint document though). 

I also got to try some new (to me) techniques: darts and a blind hem (LOVE!). After this, my love affair with my blind hem foot for top stitching continues. I'll be honest, I struggle to sew in a straight line. The blind hem foot just makes it so easy.

Check that top stitching

Another skill I am yet to master is the selfie. So no good photos of me in the skirt. This was the best I could do. 

 

A Garment a month: March - Bess Top

Ok, I know you are wondering what happened to February, right? I'm claiming my Roly Poly for that month. It might be small, but it's still a garment.

Anyway, this month my infatuation with Imagine Gnats patterns continues, this time grown up size. For March, I made a Bess top. I'd seen this on Pinterest in different versions and thought that I'd give it a go. I liked that it didn't have sleeves to set or darts in the bust (I'm starting off easy, remember?). 

I had a panel of Nordika fabric by Jeni Baker that I loved and was reluctant to chop up. Plus I (still) have a load of that sheer chambray, so a Bess top they were destined to become. 

Now, I stayed up late last Thursday finishing the top so I could wear it Friday and I got instant gratification. A complete random in the park came up to me and said she liked my top and where did I get it? Ka-Ching! Doesn't look handmade then. Next up I got a compliment in my local quilt store. Double Ka-Ching!! So clearly I must make more clothes. 

Slight downer was the discovery of this hole later in the afternoon

But I stitched it up and it seems to be holding so far. 

I made the pattern pretty much per the instructions with the exception of using a knit to bind the neck / arm hole / hem. I didn't have any on hand and I didn't want to buy some just for this, so I used the finishing method from the Wiksten tank and bound it with the chambray. 

Next time round I think I'd like to try French Seams down the side. I don't have an overlocker and I think a finished seam looks so much nicer than pinking / zig zagging. Plus I think it may be a bit sturdier construction for people that have small children hanging off them. I suspect that the pinking may have had something to do with that hole...I don't know for sure, but the seam looked a little skinny there post pinking.

Regardless, it was a quick and easy sew. The pattern says intermediate because of the sleeves wrapping around requiring some thinking (I thought ''I have to do what?'') but I just went ahead and sewed and it was pretty straight forward. I would definitely not class myself as an intermediate garment sewer and I had no troubles following this pattern at all. I am pretty happy with how it all came together and I think there are more Bess tops in my future.

This is also my finish for March ALYoF (I was #40 in the original goal linky). Now I have to start planning for my garment for next month.

March ALYoF Goal: a Bess Top

Last month, I cheated a bit on my garment a month challenge and made my little one a Imagine Gnats Roly Poly out of Wee Wander fabric. Technically, it is a garment, just not one for me...

This month I am back on the wagon (so to speak) and making something for myself. Another Imagine Gnats pattern - this one a Bess Top.

I have seen a few of these on various social media and they look quite flattering and comfortable. Hopefully also a relatively easy make. I am trying to ease my way into more complex garments.

I just cut my fabric. I am using one of the panels from Jeni Baker's Nordika line. I remember when this first came out and I was so in love with it. I bought a fat quarter bundle and then one I got came with half yards of the two panels. Perfect for the front of a top! The back is the same lovely chambray I used for the Roly Poly.

(Crap photo, sorry, but it was midnight when I took this so I wasn't up for getting a better one)

I hope it suits me because I will be cross if I have wasted this lovely panel!

This is my March goal for A Lovely Year of Finishes

A finish: Wee Wander Roly Poly

I bought a bundle of Wee Wander probably close to a year ago to make a birthday quilt for my eldest niece. I made quite a decent dent in most of the prints, but I didn't touch either of the panel pieces. They were just lovely and it seemed criminal to cut them up, yet I couldn't quite get my head around what to make with them.

Fast forward to now, and here is Wee Wander Roly Poly in blue.

The fat quarter panel easily fit in the front piece of the pattern (I made a 2T). I used chambray for the exterior side pieces and a cute Lisette green and blue check print for the lining. 

The pattern was a pretty easy make. I was hampered a bit by my inability to read a pattern the whole way through but I still managed to sew up the whole thing in one night. 

Someone mentioned on Instagram using their blind stitch foot to get even top stitching, so I used that which was a great help (thanks for the tip, whoever you are!). 

And here are some shots of my Ms Bird "modelling". Anyone with kids knows how impossible this sort of task is - especially when you want to keep the clothes clean so you can't bribe with food. 

Perfect for conquering the playground

Next up is a pink one for my eldest. 

Linking up for my February ALYoF goal. There's a button in m side bar if you want to play along.

ALYoF February Goal - Wee Wander Roly Poly

A while ago I won a copy of the Roly Poly pattern by Rachel from Imagine Gnats.

I also have these two sweet panels from Wee Wander and some chambray that I bought to make a skirt but I think would actually border on indecent - it seems kind of sheer for a lower half covering (I am going to make a top for me from it though). 

The magical union of these will hopefully result in a sweet little top (or perhaps two) for my girls. Ms Moo has bagsed the pink, so I guess that leaves blue for Ms Bird. 

Since I haven't made anything for Ms Bird for a while, she gets hers done first. 

Linking up as my February goal for A Lovely Year of Finishes.

A garment a month: January - Wiksten Tank

One of my resolves this year (sewing wise at least) is to make one item of clothing each month.

My clothes sewing experience so far includes two staple dresses, one kids dress and two kiddies circle skirts with elastic waists. And when I say includes, I mean sum total. So I am starting off easy and working my way up the complexity ladder. 

My January patten is the Wiksten tank. I teamed it up with some sweet Lisette fabric I got from Spotty. 

It is really super soft. 

I was a bit of a rebel and didn't make a muslin (I know!!) and lucky for me the fit worked out ok. Actually, it worked out great which is terrible because I know it will just encourage bad habits in me! There would have been swearing if it didn't after all those bias bound seams. If I were to make it again I would consider ditching the pocket. And I'd probably drop the neckline down an inch and narrow the straps a smidge. I am busty and I think those changes would make it more flattering. 

Process wise, I'd probably just measure the dimensions of the bias tape I need and cut it with a rotary cutter next time. Mine came out kind of raggedy which made attaching it a bit tricky. I blame it on being a lefty with right handed scissors. I also have one or two small folds where I have attached the binding but I think with practice I will eliminate that problem. 

Still it came out pretty professional looking. It doesn't scream home made. I was yammering on about the advantages of a French seam to my husband. To his credit, he did a decent job of looking interested. And he was very complimentary when I put it on this morning.

Next up I have an Alder skirt or a Bess top. Anyone have any other suggestions for patterns to try which are still pretty easy and come out great?